The Beauty Brains

The Beauty Brains Have Moved

2006-10-28T11:26:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains have moved! Why? Because of all the traffic from new readers, as well as the continued questions from our loyal Beauty Brainiacs. Instead of using Blogspot, we're now hosting our own website so we can do an even better job of answering your questions and educating you on the science of beauty care products.

Check it it out and let us know what you think of the new look. And be sure to change your bookmarks!!

Visit our new site:

Thebeautybrains.com

Can Poison Make Eyelashes Grow Longer?

2006-10-20T07:01:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains.

For answers to your beauty questions please Ask the Beauty Brains.

Do Home Microdermabrasion Kits Work?

2006-08-25T06:56:00.000-05:00

This post has moved to the all new Beauty Brains!

Be sure to visit the Beauty Brains for answers to all your beauty questions.

Beauty Q&A - Are Arbonne products the end-all, be-all of skin care?

2006-07-19T21:10:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

Check out this information on Arbonne Products at our new site.

Beauty Q & A: Is Pantene Good Or Bad For My Hair?

2006-07-04T11:20:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved. Please see the Pantene review at the all new Beauty Brains.

And if you have more beauty questions, see the new Beauty Brains for your beauty answers.

New Herbal Essences Shampoo

2006-07-02T16:47:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains Herbal Essence review

And for all your beauty questions come see the new Beauty Brains

Beauty Q & A: Do Tattoo Fade Creams Work?

2006-06-13T09:13:00.000-05:00

This blog has moved!! Check out an updated version of this at The New Beauty Brains.

And answers to all your beauty questions please visit the all new Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q&A - Are salon products in regular stores the same as those bought in salons

2006-06-11T17:44:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the Salon Post on the new Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q & A: What Are These Red Bumps On My Arms?

2006-06-05T18:52:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

Please see the article at it's new location, the skincare section of the Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q&A - Hand sanitizer handbook

2006-06-05T07:07:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains site.

Please click here to read all about hand sanitizers.

Beauty Q & A: Do Sunscreens Work on Hair?

2006-06-04T12:35:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the sunscreen section of our new site.

Please come visit our new site at The Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q & A: Can I Really Repair Split Ends?

2006-06-04T08:42:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the Split End section of the new Beauty Brains.

Please visit our new site at The Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q&A : More on shampoo build-up

2006-06-04T07:47:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the shampoo section of the new Beauty Brains.

Come see the all new Beauty Brains for answers to all your beauty questions.

Beauty Q&A: Why Does My Shampoo Stop Working?

2006-06-03T16:03:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains have moved and so has this post. Please see this one on "why shampoo stops working"

Beauty News: Gadget for Lip Gloss

2006-06-03T11:42:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains have moved and so has this post. See it at Gadget for lip Gloss.

Look for answers to these questions coming soon:

2006-06-02T19:00:00.000-05:00

Silvia: How Do Conditioners Make Hair Straight Or Curly?

Patricia: Amino Acids and Shampoos

Bluz Cluz: What Makes Hair Frizzy?

Kim: What's the Right Way To Apply Sunscreen?

Jessica: Are Clay Masks Good For Your Skin?

Elisa: Can I Use Oil To Clean My Face?

Pamela: Do I Really Need To "Purge" My Skin Between Products?

Yvonne: Does Jan Marini's Age Intervention Eyelash Really Make Your Eyelashes Grow?

Li: How Does Your Hair Know When To Grow?

Etienne: What Can I Do About Dark Circles Under My Eyes?

Emma: How Do Whitening Mouthwashes Work?

Janessa: Are Antiperspirants Bad For You?

Reul: Is Mario Badusco Drying Lotion Better Than Benzoyl Peroxide?

Faye: Is Long Term Use Of Sunscreen Bad For You?

Jincy: What Can I Do About Ingrown Hairs?

Jim: Is Nanotechnology Effective In Hair Care?

Glitterati: How Do Mousse Foundations Work With Silicones?

Jess: How Can I Shrink My Pores?

Pamela: Do Moisturizing Oils Work?

Mandy: Does Mederma Get Rid Of Scars?

Denise: How Can I Fade Age Spots and Scars?

Sandra: How Do I Get Rid Of Head Lice?

Maddie: Do Hair Care Ingredients Really Penetrate My Hair?

Liz: Why Does My Eyeliner Melt?

Ying: Does Vaseline Thicken Eyelashes?

Jessica: Are Silcone Foundations Bad For Acne?

H Driver: Can Glycolic Acid Peel Remove Tattoos?

Sue: Is There A Difference Between Home Hair Coloring Kits?

Nanda: How Does Dudley's Setting Lotion Curb My Curls?

Anna: Can You Help Me Find A Good Skin Care Line?

Laura: Are SLS and Propylene Glycol Dangerous?

Lisette: Does Redken Extreme Deep Fuel Last Through 8 Shampoos?

Lucia: Can Remergent DNA Skin Cream Repair DNA Damage?

Kay: Can Women Use Just For Men Hair Dye?

Meagan: Does the Urea In My Cosmetics Come From Urine?

Beauty Q & A: Does Talika Lipocils Grow Longer Eyelashes?

2006-06-02T17:33:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

To see this post click on this Talika Eyelash post.

Beauty Q & A: How Do I Take Care of My "30-ish" Skin?

2006-06-02T06:19:00.000-05:00

See the new Beauty Brains for this skin care question

And see our new site for all your beauty questions.

Beauty Buzz: Placenta Shampoo

2006-06-01T18:32:00.000-05:00

Post has been moved....Placenta shampoo

Come see the all new Beauty Brains

Beauty News - That Make-up Really Does Work

2006-06-01T06:56:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains' beauty news section.

And check out the new Beauty Brains for all your beauty questions.

Beauty Q&A: Can Anti-Cellulite Creams Make You Lose Weight?

2006-05-31T21:55:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the anti-cellulite post on the new Beauty Brains.

Come see the new Beauty Brains for all your beauty questions.

Beauty Q & A: What To Do For Dry Skin and Breakouts?

2006-05-31T21:47:00.000-05:00

Do you have dry skin and acne? Check out this skin post at the new home of the Beauty Brains.

Beauty Buzz: No Rinse Shampoo

2006-05-31T06:04:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the dry shampoo post on the new Beauty Brains.

Beauty News - Stopping the stink

2006-05-30T22:25:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the oral care section of the new Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q & A: What Hair Removal Products Work?

2006-05-30T06:45:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains in the hair removal section.

Beauty News - The skinny on sunless tanning

2006-05-29T20:51:00.000-05:00

This post on sunless tanning has been moved to the New Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q & A: What Are Photofacials?

2006-05-28T22:19:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains.

See the new Beauty Brains

Beauty News: Your Purse Can Make You Sick

2006-05-28T12:19:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the Beauty Brains purse page.

Come see the new Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q & A: What Causes Pierced Ear Infections?

2006-05-27T23:46:00.000-05:00

We moved this post to our new Beauty Brains site.

The Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q & A: Does Magnetic Jewelry Really Work?

2006-05-27T09:30:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains.

Come to our new site for all your Beauty Questions.

Beauty Q & A: Do Ingredients in Teeth Whitening Strips Really Work?

2006-05-26T22:52:00.000-05:00

This post has moved to the new Beauty Brains oral care product reviews.

Come see the new Beauty Brains for more answers to beauty questions.

Beauty Q & A: What Happened to My Nail Polish Remover?

2006-05-26T07:05:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

And see The Beauty Brains for answers to your beauty questions.

Beauty Buzz: Eucerin deep pore purifying mask

2006-05-25T21:53:00.001-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains. Please click here for the post.

Beauty Q&A - Would You Use Self Preserved Cosmetics?

2006-05-25T21:53:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains cosmetic preservative post.

For answers to your beauty questions check out the all new Beauty Brains.

Actual Ads: Fragrance and The Flag

2006-05-25T18:36:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains. Fragrance Ads.

Come see the Beauty Brains for answers to all your Beauty Questions.

Beauty Q & A: Is Ojon Restorative Treatment Any Good?

2006-05-24T06:58:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to our new blog site. Click here for the Ojon Product Review.

And for answers to all your beauty questions, see the new Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q & A: Bad Brush Bacteria?

2006-05-23T20:32:00.000-05:00

We have moved our blog!! Come find more at the all new Beauty Brains.

Corinneyb asks:
What do you think of Clinique's makeup brushes with their "unique antibacterial technology" that is supposed to last up to 500 cleanings?

The Right Brain Rejoins:
Without extensive testing, there's no way to tell which antimicrobial agent Clinique is using on their brushes, or how long it will actually last. We're reminded of the Ocello sponges that claim to fight mildew odor for a certain number of washings. And those things never seem to last as long as they say they will!

We don't have a strong opinion on these brushes, but you can read more on this blogger's comments.

The Brain's Bottom Line:
Does treating brushes with an antibacterial agent help? It certainly could. Does it make the brush worth that much more money? Well, we suppose that depends on how much trouble you're having with your current brushes. If you can afford them, you've got nothing to lose. Give Clinique a try and let us know what you think!

Beauty Q&A - Ode to Olive Oil

2006-05-23T20:04:00.000-05:00

We've moved!! Please see our new site at The Beauty Brains.com

Cynical Girl Says…
Okay, talk to me about DHC skin care products. Does the olive oil really make a difference? I use the olive oil cleansing product to remove make-up, but I'm not sure if it's a waste of money.

The Left Brain Counters...
To answer this question let's first look at how these things work? Makeup is essentially composed of oily materials such as waxes, oils, pigments, and emollients. They stay on your face so well because these ingredients do not dissolve in water; if they did your makeup would run! But that also means you can’t remove them with water either. Standard facial cleansers don’t work so well on makeup because they are designed to be gentle. The more gentle you make a cleanser, the less ability it has to remove heavy oils. Cleansing ingredients are generally harsh for your face. If manufacturers made the cleansers with more detergent, you could remove the makeup but you would also remove all the natural facial lipids and dry out your skin! Thus, the makeup remover is needed.

Makeup removers use the “like dissolves like” property of chemicals. Since oils can be dissolved in oils, and makeup is oil based, the removers also have oils in them. When the oil is rubbed on the face, it mixes with the surface makeup and is then removed with a cotton swab or cloth. The makeup removers also contain a small amount of surfactant to aid in removal off the face. What’s left on the face is some residual oil but not much if you wipe it well. This small amount of oil can then be removed with a facial cleanser leaving your face perfectly clean without being dried out.

The product you mentioned has the following ingredients.

europaea (olive) fruit oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, sorbeth-30 tetraoleate, tocopherol, phenoxyethanol, propylparaben, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil

The formula is basically olive oil with some added lower molecular weight oils (probably vegetable oil) and nonionic surfactant. It also has a splash of vitamin E added to have something extra to say on the label and a few preservatives to ensure the stuff doesn’t go rancid. At $3.58 an ounce that’s pretty pricey. Especially considering that you could buy a gallon of olive oil for about $25.

“Standard” makeup removers are emulsions (mixtures of water and oil) based on an ingredient like mineral oil. Here’s an example…

Water, Mineral Oil, Lanolin, Petrolatum, PEG-15 Cocamine, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Methylparaben, Propylparaben

This formula is also an oil, a surfactant and some preservatives. It also has a thickener in it. Basically, these formulas will work the same.

Brains bottom line
So does the Olive Oil based formula work better than the mineral oil based one? An excellent question. While we haven’t tested this question exactly, the most likely answer is no. Olive oil is a decent oil solubilizer but mineral oil is better. And since it’s been shown that mineral oil does not cause acne, you should not fear using a formula with this ingredient. But if the olive oil based formula is working well for you and you don’t mind spending the extra money, feel free. It’s not any better for you but it’s probably not going to be bad for you either unless you have a condition like these folks.

Beauty Q & A: The Problem With Pore Strips

2006-05-23T19:38:00.000-05:00

We've Moved!! Please come and read the all-new Beauty Brains

Another “Anonymous” Asks:
What can you tell us about Bioré-type pore strips? It's strangely fascinating seeing all the crap come off on the strips, but is just a quick-fix that will actually make things worse in the long run?

The Right Brain Boasts About Biore:
A pore strip, like Biore’s, is a very dramatic way to clean your pores. It works by adhering tightly to your skin – so tightly that when you pull it off it also pulls out the oily, dirty gunk that is clogging your pores.

The cool thing is that you can actually SEE the “pore poop” stuck to the strip after you take it off. The first time the Brains tried this product they sat staring transfixed at the forest of tiny nasal pore discharges dotting the landscape of the freshly spent pore strip. Some white heads were barely visible to the naked eye; other black heads where ominously thick and dark. We still get shivers just thinking about it.

Even if you don’t feel you need them, we recommend trying pore strips as an experiment just so you can see for yourself.

(By the way, just in case you’re wondering how all that gunk gets in your pores in the first place, click here for an excellent description of the process courtesy of Cosmeticscop.com. )

But back to your question:
When used correctly, Pore Strips can be a powerful weapon in your battle against blackheads. But don’t use them too often – they can irritate your skin. Three times per week max, that’s the limit. Any more than that and you risk damaging your skin. We quote Cosmeticscop's description of the dangerous downside:

"What about pore strips? What has me most concerned about pore strips (which are not as widely available as they once were) is that most people don’t pay attention to the warnings clearly printed on the side of the box. Pore strips are accompanied by strong warnings such as not to use them over any area other than the nose and not to use them over inflamed, swollen, sunburned, or excessively dry skin. It also states that if the strip is too painful to remove, you should wet it and then carefully remove it. What a warning! You may at first be impressed with what comes off your nose. (Well, if you have extremely superficial, noticeable black-looking blackheads, there is no question: you will be impressed.) Most people do have some oil sitting at the top of their oil glands (most of the face's oil glands are located on the nose), and whether you use these strips or a piece of tape, black dots and some skin will be removed. Is that helpful? Briefly, but if you use these repeatedly, they will not eliminate the problem and the ingredients on the strip can eventually irritate skin and potentially trigger further breakouts."

The Brain's Bottom Line:
Pore strips really work, but they're no substitute for a good, regular cleansing regimen. And don't use them too often or you may experience some negative side effects.

We've Moved!! Please come and read the all-new Beauty Brains

Beauty Q & A: Do Aspirin Masks Work?

2006-05-23T06:31:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains have moved!! Please come visit us at our new home The Beauty Brains.com

Ivy Asks About Aspirin: I've been preparing to write about Aspirin Masks. The mask is prepared by crushing four aspirins and mixing it with a bit of water to create a paste. Then it's smeared over one's face.

Do you know anything about this do-it-yourself cosmetic?

The Right Brain Responds: Aspirin Masks seem to be all the rage these days, but we can't find any evidence that they're worth the effort. Here's why:

The active ingredient in aspirin is the drug called Acetylsalicylic Acid. After you swallow an aspirin tablet it travels to your small intestine where this ingredient is broken down to create to Salicylic Acid. Salicylic Acid, or Sal Acid as it's referred to, is the form of the drug that actually reduces pain, fever, etc.

Now, Sal Acid also belongs to the class of chemicals known as Beta Hydroxy Acids, or BHAs. BHAs are similar to AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids). Both BHAs and AHAs are known for their ability to help slough off dead skin cells when applied topically.

Are you beginning to see the connection between aspirin and facial masks?

In theory, crushing aspirin tablets and rubbing them on your face COULD be beneficial because you're delivering a skin smoothing BHA, right? Well, not exactly.

You're really delivering Acetylsalicylic Acid to the skin - NOT Salicylic Acid, which is the active BHA. And just rubbing the Acetyl verision on your skin won't make it convert to the Sal Acid version. Ok, maybe SOME of the acid is present in the Sal version, but it certainly isn't an optimized dose.

The Beauty Brain's Bottom Line:
Putting crushed aspirin on your face might have SOME benefit, but if you really want a skin smoothing BHA treatment, just buy one of the many Sal Acid products on the market (e.g., Neutrogena's 1% Sal Acid cleansing mask.) In this case the home-made remedy doesn't appear as effective as the chemist-made one.

Beauty Q & A: How Do I Clean Make Up Brushes?

2006-05-22T23:10:00.000-05:00

We've moved!! Check out the all new Beauty Brains.

Carrie's Curious About Cleaning:
I am an aspiring makeup artist and I'm wondering what the best way to clean and disinfect my cosmetics brushes would be. In Cosmetology school we used Quaternary Ammonium Compounds to disinfect hair brushes but how can I disinfect brushes I use on the face? If you have any great ideas let me know. I want to protect my clients as best as I can.

The Brains Don't Brush Her Off:
Thanks for the question Carrie. Unfortunately, there’s not a simple answer. In reality, there are many disinfecting chemicals available - the Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (called Quats for short) are one of the most common. But when you become a professional make up artist, you'll need to make sure you're following the local state regulations for cosmetologists and those regulations usually specify some kind of sanitization protocol for brushes. You should be able to find out more by doing a web search for the state you’re in. (You’re probably in a state of confusion at this point!)

Now, having said all that, we can steer you toward a couple of “not-necessarily -approved-by-state-regulatory-agency” methods for cleaning make up brushes:

1) The Colorescience Brush company says this about their brush cleaner:

“This pharmaceutical grade aromatherapy spray gently cleans make up brushes with natural ingredients. Its alcohol and hydrogen peroxide formulation helps purify and quick dry your Colorescience brushes.”

2) A manufacturer of squirrel hair brushes (no, we’re not making this up) recommends the following and we quote:

“There are many brush cleaners available. Two excellent brands worth mentioning are Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver and "Pink Soap" Artist Brush Cleaner and Conditioner. They both clean and rinse out very well. Moreover, they help condition your makeup brush hair. They are available at any good art supply store.”

The Brain’s attorneys won’t let us comment on the viability of using art supplies to clean your make up brushes, but hey, if it’s good enough for squirrels… But seriously, you should check out their website just to see their instructions on how to clean and dry brushes - they've got some good tips.

3) Finally, here's a tip from a consumer at one of our fave sites, “Smartskincare.com:

“After cleansing your face in the morning, you are more than likely spreading bacteria back on your face when you apply make-up with a brush. Makeup brushes are breeding grounds for bacteria. To help keep my brushes clean after each use, I simply wipe each brush back and forth over an inexpensive anti-bacterial wet wipe before putting them away. (You can actually see the makeup and blush residue deposited on the wipe!) Your brushes will be dry in about 3 minutes and stay much cleaner in between washings. This helps to keep breakouts to a minimum.”

Interesting. We’re not sure if this is scientifically valid, but interesting.

The Beauty Brain’s Bottom Line:

To be honest, we’re not really experts in brush cleaning. But there are a lot of products out there so we suggest you check with a local beauty school for their recommendations. Sorry we can't be of more help, but thanks for the interesting question.

We've moved!! Check out the all new Beauty Brains.

Beauty News Bits - Wonderful whale washup?

2006-05-22T12:41:00.000-05:00

This entry has moved to the new Beauty Brains site.

Please look here for answers to all your beauty questions.

Beauty Q & A: Do Curling Shampoos Really Work?

2006-05-21T13:44:00.001-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

Please visit for answers to all your Beauty Questions.

Beauty Q &A: What's a Good Facial Sunscreen?

2006-05-21T09:20:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

If you have beauty questions be sure to ask the Beauty Brains.

Beauty News - Are You A Suntan Addict?

2006-05-20T10:35:00.000-05:00

This page has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

Come by and check us out for all your beauty questions
.

The Science of Color and Fashion

2006-05-20T09:25:00.000-05:00

This entry has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

Please stop by to find this and other answers to all your beauty questions.

Beauty Buzz: Worst Shampoo Ingredients Ever

2006-05-19T21:45:00.000-05:00

This page has been moved to the new home of the Beauty Brains.

If you've got beauty questions, we've got the answers.

Beauty News: The Biology of Beauty

2006-05-19T05:52:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

Please come visit our new site for answers to all your beauty questions.

Beauty News Bits - Does mineral oil cause zits?

2006-05-18T22:31:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains and this post have been moved. Check out the mineral post here.

And for other beauty questions, get answers at our new site.

Hair Care - L'Oreal

2006-05-18T20:40:00.000-05:00

This post about L'Oreal has been moved here. Please see the all new Beauty Brains

Beauty Busting – Are Hair Products Bad for your Hair?

2006-05-18T07:13:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains.

For answers to your beauty questions just ask the Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q& A: Is Lip Balm Addictive?

2006-05-17T21:35:00.000-05:00

This Lip Balm post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains

Beauty Bits: Diamonds Made From Human Hair

2006-05-17T05:41:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

And visit our new site for beauty answers to all your beauty questions.

Beauty Q & A: Are Straightening Irons Good for Your Hair?

2006-05-16T19:18:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains have moved as has this post on straightening irons.

ACTUAL ADS: TRY-ON HAIR COLOR

2006-05-16T05:32:00.000-05:00

This post has moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

And visit our new site for answers to all your beauty questions

Beauty Review: Biosilk

2006-05-15T19:55:00.000-05:00

Hello. Thanks for visiting our site. But this is our old site and we have since moved.

For answers to all your beauty questions, come visit the new Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q & A: Do Shave Minimizing Lotions Work?

2006-05-15T07:12:00.000-05:00

Shave minimizing lotions really don't work. See our new Beauty Brains site for the full explanation .

And for answers to your beauty questions just ask the Beauty Brains.

Breaking hair

2006-05-14T16:35:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new beauty brains.

And for answers to your beauty questions please visit our new site

Science Sources: Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association (CTFA)

2006-05-13T08:52:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved. Please see our new site.

And for all your beauty questions, see The Beauty Brains for answers.

Beauty Q & A: Hair Loss Products - Love 'em or Lose 'em?

2006-05-12T05:44:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved. Please click here to find out what hair loss products work.

The Beauty Brains. For all your beauty answers.

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2006-05-11T20:15:00.000-05:00

If you want to get your daily dose of the Beauty Brains Banter without having to search the web, just subscribe to the RSS feed right here. It's just a simple click away.

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Beauty in a Bottle: How Does Mascara Work?

2006-05-11T07:08:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains mascara post.

And please visit our new site for answers to all your beauty questions.

Beauty News Bits - What's Making Your Skin Red?

2006-05-10T20:24:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains

Please visit the Beauty Brains where you'll get all your beauty answers.

Beauty Review: Pantene Restoratives

2006-05-10T19:02:00.000-05:00

Post has been moved to this review of Pantene Restoratives.

And for answers to all your beauty questions, please visit the all new Beauty Brains.

Beauty News: Science Makes Smarter Shoppers

2006-05-09T21:40:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

Click here for answers to your beauty questions.

Tasty Toothpastes

2006-05-09T05:52:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains

Please see our new site for answers to all your beauty questions.

Combing cream with cereal

2006-05-08T14:24:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the cereal styling page on the new Beauty Brains.

Beauty News - Advances for Making Anti-Aging Lotions

2006-05-08T13:19:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the anti-aging lotion section of the new Beauty Brains.
For answers to your beauty questions see the new Beauty Brains.

Beauty Q&A - Hairy Glaze of Glory

2006-05-07T10:27:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the hair glaze section on the new beauty brains.
Got beauty questions, we've got beauty answers.

How Cosmetics Work: Skin Lotions Part 1

2006-05-07T08:20:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains

And for answers to all your beauty questions please give the Beauty Brains a try.

Beauty Business: Who's Who In Hair Care

2006-05-07T00:15:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the all new Beauty Brains.

Check out the new Beauty Brains for all your beauty answers.

Who's who in the Beauty Biz

2006-05-06T12:58:00.000-05:00

The primary goal of the Beauty Brains is to help you, our readers, become smarter shoppers by educating you about cosmetic products. While most of our posts deal with the science and technology of these products, we will occasionally post about the business side of this industy as well. So here we present the Who's Who of the Beauty Biz. Here you'll find all the companies that make the industry go. You might be surprised who owns which brands.

Company

Proctor & Gamble - The Consumer Product Giant

L'Oreal - The haircare people

Beauty Q&A - Animal Testing Analysis

2006-05-06T12:40:00.000-05:00

Curious about Animal Testing and cosmetics? We've moved our blog and this post on animal testing.

And see the All New Beauty Brains for your beauty answers.

Beauty Buzz: Too Many Shampoo Choices Part 2

2006-05-06T08:37:00.000-05:00

This post has been moved to the new Beauty Brains.

Please come visit the Beauty Brains!

Beauty in a Bottle: How Do Shampoos Work? Part 3: Interaction with Hair

2006-05-05T07:57:00.000-05:00

In previous posts , we've talked about the ingredients in shampoo and how they're mixed together. This post talks about how shampoo actually works to clean your hair.

The reason you want to wash your hair in the first place is because it's dirty - but how does it get dirty? There are several ways: The sebaceous glands in your scalp secrete natural oils (kind of chemically similar to olive oil) that make your hair feel greasy; then you 've got perspiration which deposits salts and other junk on your hair and scalp. On top of that mess you have smoke , pollution, and dust that your hair picks up from the environment. And let's not forget the styling residue from hair spray, gel, mousse, and putty you might have used. Now, you might think that getting this stuff off your hair would be simple, but the process of cleansing is really ingeniously sophisticated.

For the most part, all this residue on your hair is not very water soluble - in other words if you just rinse your hair in water you wouldn't get rid of it all. Enter the shampoo with its surfactant (aka detergent) molecules. These molecules are designed to remove these water insoluble contaminants by working as tiny chemical bridges. (They link oil and water together.)

If you were to look at these molecules under a microscope , you would see they consist of two parts: One end of the molecule is attracted to water, and at the other end to oil. This structure gives surfactants the unique ability to combine oil and water and it also allows them to create foam as well. This handy little piece of chemisty is the one of the most important properties of cosmetic ingredients and we'll talk about it more in a future post .

So, when the shampoo is applied to your dirty hair, these tiny chemical cleansers spring into action and "seek out" the drops of oil, dirt, and yesterday's Sebastion hair spray. The surfactants actually surround these contaminants and lift them off your hair. Once all the undesirable dirt is lifted off your hair the surfactants keep it suspended in the rinse water so it goes down the drain, not back on your hair.

So there you have it - that's how shampoo cleans your hair. And if you're wondering how a 2 in 1 shampoo cleans and conditions your hair at the same time, well, that's a different post!

Beauty Q & A: Facial Creams and Moisturizers

2006-05-04T19:39:00.000-05:00

Sandy’s Search for Science:

“I'm curious about all the different types of facial moisturizers out there - eye cream, face cream, face lotion, serum, day moisturizer, night moisturizer...etc. How different are they exactly, and which ones are truly necessary?”

The Right Brain Rejoins:

Well, Sandy, here at The Beauty Brains, we treat all questions as equal. But, not all parts of your skin are equal and that’s why you need different types of facial moisturizers. (How’s that for a segue to your answer?)

Most of the products you cited are designed to perform on different parts of your skin OR they’re meant to perform different functions. Eye creams, for starters, are specially designed for the delicate area around your eyes. As you can see if you click here*, the skin around the eye has unique properties:

“It has virtually no sebacious glands, which makes it highly prone to dryness. It is much thinner and more sensitive than other facial skin. It overlies a particularly dense capillary network and has minimal fat padding, which makes the eye area prone to puffiness. It is stressed by frequent eye movements and squinting.” *courtesy of Smartskincare.com

Cosmetics made for use around the eyes are formulated to address these specific properties. Facial skin, on the other hand, needs products formulated differently because the area around the nose and cheeks is filled with active oil glands. You don’t want to apply too many oily moisturizers to this area! (Acne anyone?) So, it looks like you need to decide WHERE on your face the product will be used before you pick the product.

Ah, but if only it were as simple as “eye” or “not eye.” There are other factors to consider – is the product meant to moisturize during the day? Well then the formula should probably contain a UV absorber. Is it just a night time product? Then UV isn’t a problem. So, you also need to consider WHEN you’ll be using the product before you pick the product.

What about product forms, you ask? Serums, lotions, creams? Well, these are really just different delivery vehicles. You can have serums for the face, lotions for the eyes, creams for the nose, or serums for the nose, creams for the face and lotions for the eyes or you can have…. Well, you get the picture. You need to decide what kind of product form you like before you pick the product.

Soooo, the Brains bottom line: to some extent, these products are different and understanding where, when and how you want to use the product will help you select what to buy. But beware – there is a lot of Marketing hype out there and you don’t need to buy EVERYTHING they tell you!

Thanks for the question, we hope this helps.

Beauty News - Corrective Cosmetics Can't Conceal Concern

2006-05-03T22:06:00.000-05:00

Scientists from the Ohio State University are reporting that using make-up to cover severe facial marks may not actually make women with severe facial blemishes feel better about themselves. In a paper published in the most recent issue of the International Journal of Dermatology women with these blemishes reported a lower quality of life than women with similar blemishes who did not wear concealing make-up.

Now, it could be that the women who didn’t use the concealing make-up were just naturally more self-confident. But it is surprising that these expensive make-ups were not doing the job they were intended for. It sounds like this is a real opportunity for a creative cosmetic chemist. We just have to figure out why people are dissatisfied with these products.

Beauty Q&A - The Paraben Perils

2006-05-02T22:21:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains have moved!! Please visit our new site at http://thebeautybrains.com.

Lou asked…
What are your feelings on parabens? Is this something we should avoid in a product? If so, any recommendations on brands to check out? Thank you

And snapdragon77 also asked…
Everyone is afraid of PARABENS! The product line that I use (Bioelements) lists methylparaben and propylparaben as the last ingredients, and I know that they are preservatives, but what do I tell a frightened clientele who have just heard "Parabens=Bad!"

Left Brain Responds...
First things first. Parabens are preservatives used in nearly every kind of cosmetic. They are put in formulas in small amounts to prevent the growth of disease-causing microbes. Without preservatives, cosmetics would be much more dangerous to use. They have been used in cosmetics for at least 20 years and are quite effective at killing microbes.

It’s not surprising that parabens raise so many questions. Stories about these ingredients and the perils of using products that contain them are found everywhere on the net. A quick google search of “parabens and cancer” results in over 300,000 hits! Sites like this and this extol the evils of parabens. Of course, sites like this and this state a much different, less alarming position. So who should you believe?

Here’s what the FDA has to say about the subject. Their position is best summed up in the following quote, “FDA believes that at the present time there is no reason for consumers to be concerned about the use of cosmetics containing parabens.” But they are still looking at data.

And the primary governmental agency (in the United States) that receives money to research such questions, the National Institute for Health, has this position paper. Basically, “…researchers at the National Cancer Institute (NCI) are not aware of any conclusive evidence linking the use of underarm antiperspirants or deodorants and the subsequent development of breast cancer.”

So where did the furor about parabens and cancer come from. In 2004, Dr Philippa Darbre at the University of Reading published a study in the Journal of Applied Toxicology that said his group tested 20 different human breast tumors and found parabens in all of them. Neither he nor anyone else could explain how they got there or why they were there. They also couldn't say whether normal tissue had parabens. This raised the possibility that the parabens could have something to do with the cancer, but no one could explain what was going on. And since then, there still hasn’t been an explanation. This doesn’t mean parabens have anything to do with cancer. We just can’t say they don’t.

So, what do we think? Here at the Beauty Brains, we have to side with the majority of the scientific research. Namely, at the moment there’s no significant reason to be concerned. The notion that parabens are a major cause of breast cancer is just not true! It’s possible that they might play a role in breast cancer but there is no conclusive evidence that supports this idea. No matter how bad parabens are, microbes are much worse.

Many cosmetic industry suppliers are offering alternatives to parabens. Privately, these companies acknowledge that parabens are more effective. They also do not believe there are any real safety issues, but it is an opportunity to create new products so they are taking it. Unfortunately, every other effective preservative such as DMDM Hydantoin (a formaldehyde ingredient) or Kathon (synthetic) have potential safety issues. And suggested alternatives like grapefruit seed extract · phenoxyethanol · potassium sorbate · sorbic acid · tocopherol (vitamin E) · vitamin A (retinyl) · vitamin C (ascorbic acid) don’t really work too well. The available preservatives aren’t perfect, but they are the best there is. And they are certainly better than using nothing. Bacteria, yeast, & mold could really kill you!

Preservative alarmists may have a point and the industry is constantly on the lookout for new, effective ingredients. They just haven’t found any. But the risk posed from these ingredients is so small that it’s not worth worrying about. There are much more critical things you can do to avoid cancer like not smoking, avoiding excessive sun exposure, exercising regularly and eating a well-balanced, low fat diet. Don’t waste your energy fretting about the preservatives in your cosmetic.

Actual Ads: Hair Dryer as Pop Art

2006-05-02T19:11:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains have moved pages. Please click here to see the all new Beauty Brains.

Yes, we know it was the 1970s.

Yes, we know that "hip" and "mod" reigned supreme.

But what the HELL?!?!

In most beauty ads, the hair style takes center stage. "Make me look beautiful like the goddess in the ad" is what you're supposed to say to yourself as you flip through Cosmo.

But this ad seems to call to you in a droning, zombie like tone:

"Must--Join--Cybernetic --Blue--Capped--Line-- Dancing-- Clones."

If this were a James Bond villianess her name would be something catchy, like "Blue Bonnet Plague." Unfortunately, it's just an actual ad for a hair dryer. Go figure.

copyright 1974, The Gillette Company

Beauty Q & A - Sunscreen and Vitamin C

2006-05-01T21:10:00.000-05:00

We've moved. Please see the all new Beauty Brains.

Meg's Pondering Sun Protection:
I hear a lot about using vitamin C and antioxidants in addition to a high PPD sunscreen to prevent sun damage and aging. Is there truth to this, or is this just something the cosmetics companies invented?

The Brains Say:
Actually, there is some solid research that indicates antixoidants can have some antiaging properties when used with sunscreens.

We've known for a while that sun protection is one of the best things you can do for your skin. But now, researchers at the Department of Dermatology, Tulane University School of Medicine, New Orleans LA, have shown that vitamin C and other antioxidants can help with collagen synthesis and a variety of inflammatory dermatoses. In other words - it's really good for your skin!

By the way, kudos to Meg for using the term PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening), which is one of the proposed methods for measuring sun exposure in humans.

Beauty Q & A - The Power Of Peels (Glycolic Acid)

2006-05-01T20:51:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains have moved. Come visit our new site here.

Lux Likes This Question: I wanted to know about glycolic treatments and peels available in drugstores and beauty counters. What do these treatments do? Are these treatments effective or are you better off going to a Dr's office for a facial peel with a higher acid content? If the treatments the public can buy are effective, what ingredients and/or percent concentration should I look for?

The Brain's Bounce Back: Glycolic peels performed by a dermatoligist can be pretty potent. One study shows they're equally as effective as microdermabrasion. Ouch! These high power Derm peels use a glycolic acid concentration around 20% while your basic drug store product only only uses about 10%. So yes, there is a difference. You might be satisified with the drug store brand, but if not, see your doctor.

If you liked our facial peel picture, check out http://www.tao-spa.com/

Beauty Q & A -SPF Night and Day

2006-05-01T20:44:00.000-05:00

We've Moved!! Come see the All New Beauty Brains!

Jamie Wants To Know: I recently bought a new moisturiser which contains SPF. Is it alright to use this as a night cream as well? Will applying SPF to your skin day and night cause any harm? Or should I just go get myself a night cream?

The Brain's Say: Applying an SPF (Sun Protection Factor) cream to you skin at night versus during the day won't make any difference. Any cosmetic CAN be irritating if you have very sensitive skin, but if you've used the product during the day and it's ok, you won't have any problems at night. At least your face won't have problem. Your bank account might because SPF products tend to be more expensive! The Brain's Bottom Line: Invest in a good night cream without SPF and you'll save some money.

Beauty Q & A -Mineral Foundation and SPF

2006-05-01T20:28:00.000-05:00

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The Beauty Brains have moved!!!! Please come see the New Beauty Brains.

Kim’s Query: Is mineral makeup better for your skin than other foundations? Also, some of them say they have SPF 15. How much of the makeup would you have to use to actually get this level of protection?

The Right Brain’s Response: Kim, we’re not sure if you’re referring to powder or liquid foundations, so we’ll try to address both. Let’s start by pointing out that most, if not all foundations COULD call themselves “mineral” products because most of them already use “mineral” ingredients. Most foundations use one or more of the following: Talc, titanium dioxide,  Iron oxides,  Mica, and  Silica.) These can all be considered to be minerals in the broad sense, even though they don’t all meet the technical definition of a mineral.   Some of these ingredients, like the iron oxides, impart color. Others, like the titanium dioxide, help cover up your skin. But there’s nothing “magical” that happens just because the products contain minerals; basically, that’s just hype from the cosmetic companies.

You also asked about SPF (or Sun Protection Factor) and how much make up you’d have to apply to get an effect. You can, and should, protect your face from UV radiation and using your foundation to boost that protection is perfectly reasonable. But, sunscreens need to be applied in a fairly thick layer in order to work properly. So, if you’re just dusting on a little powdered foundation color, we doubt you’re getting very good coverage. Liquid foundation can give you good protection, IF you apply it ALL over your face. If you don’t apply foundation to your ears, for example, they’ll still burn!

Acne, Blemish, and Skin Irritation Posts

2006-05-01T16:59:00.000-05:00

1.) Zit Zapper

2.) Corrective Cosmetics

3.) What's Making Your Skin Red?

4.) Does Mineral Oil Cause Zits?

5.) Do Asprin Masks Work?

6.) The Problem With Pore Strips

7.) Eucerin Deep Pore Mask

8.) What To Do For Dry Skin and Breakouts

9.) What Are Those Red Bumps on My Arms?

10.) What Foundation Is Good For Acne?

11.) Do High Levels of Benzoyl Peroxide Work Better?

12.) Is My Face Wash Causing Acne?

13.) Does Clinque Facial Wash Cause Breakouts?

14.) Does Sleeping With Make Up On Cause Zits?

15.) New Gadget Zaps Zits

16.) Acne and Foundations

Facial Moisturizers and Cleansers Posts

2006-05-01T08:13:00.000-05:00

1) Are La Mer and Kerastase Worth It?

2) Lotions, Astringents, and More

3) Skin Toners and Astringents

4) Sunscreen and Vitamin C

5) Facial Creams and Moisturizers

6) Advances in Anti-aging Lotions

7) What's A Good Facial Sunscreen?

8) The Problem With Pore Strips

9) Ode To Olive Oil

10) Eucerin Deep Pore Purifying Mask

11) What To Do For Dry Skin and Breakouts

12) How Do I Take Care of My 30-ish Skin?

1 3) Are My Pores Weird?

14) What about Natural Ingredients and Vitamins In Facial Masks?

15) Can I Make DIY Cosmetics with Vegetable Placenta?

16) Does Over Moisturizing Dry Your Skin?

17) Is My Facial Wash Causing Acne?

18) Kiss My Face Cleanser

19) Jennifer Aniston Uses Caudalie

20) Does Clinique Facial Soap Cause Breakouts?

21) Does Neutrogena Cleanser Mask Work Better If I Leave It On?

Beauty Bits - Top 10 Trends of 2006, Part 1

2006-05-01T07:39:00.000-05:00

The Beauty Brains have moved. Come see the all new Beauty Brains.

The “researchers” at The Natural Marketing Institute (NMI) have reported on what they believe will be the Top Ten Health and Wellness Trends. While we can’t verify their prognosticatory prowess, the trends they mention do link up with what we hear from our industry sources.

1. Changing Demographics Create Health and Wellness Opportunities. People are living longer so the population is getting older. No kidding! You already see products marketed for these older (but not old) folks such as Pantene Silver Expressions or Olay Regenerist. A quick review of the label shows that while they look different than “normal” products, they are not much different than the regular formulas.

2. Organic Versus Natural: The Balance of Price and Benefits. How many of you have noticed the proliferation of new Organic/Natural aisles in your grocery store? This is no accident. It is a response to the tremendous growth of Whole Foods whose Organic/Natural positioning has struck a chord with their consumers. Cosmetics are part of this trend. Look to see more launches in the near future. Don’t look, however, for any great new products. While you can make a fine product using “natural” ingredients, they will not work better and they are not better for you. There may be some merit to the benefits of organically grown food but for the things you put on the outside of your body, not so much.

3. Energy and Vitality: Future Platforms for Growth. You’ll probably see products launched claiming to give you energy and improve vitality but keep your skeptical glasses on. This is a promise that cosmetic manufacturers can’t possibly deliver on. At best they can create nice smelling products whose odors could brighten your mood. However, that alone could be a good enough reason to buy it. It’s why I like Axe body wash.

4. Ingredient/Nutrient Drivers. Ingredients to sell products? What a surprise. While specific ingredients like Aloe, Protein, Vitamins or Omega-3 Fatty Acids will get top billing on the front of the cosmetic bottle, the ingredients that do the real work are the less sexy sounding Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, and Petrolatum. All the manufacturers put the feature ingredients at extremely low levels just so they can claim they are in there. This is specifically because of cost issues and because the feature ingredients generally don’t have much beneficial effect even if they were used at high levels. Vitamins for hair may make sense and sound good, but even taking a bath in pure Pro-Vitamin B5 won’t make your hair feel better.

5. The Proliferation of Heart Healthy Products. Look for your cosmetic makers to start selling “healthy” products. This one might be a stretch but don’t be surprised if you see a skin product that claims it will make you and your skin “healthy”. Of course, the skin products are designed never to make it into your body (they don’t penetrate the skin far enough) so the notion of making you more healthy from your skin is just silly.

In part 2, we’ll look at the rest of the emerging trends.

Hair Color Posts

2006-04-30T11:34:00.000-05:00

1) Coloring Glazes

2) Does Malibu Treatment Remove Rust Stains That Change Hair Color?

3) Don't Mix Reactive Products Like Hair Colors

4) Can Sunlight Affect Hair Color?

Beauty Buzz: Too Many Choices in the Shampoo Aisle?

2006-04-30T11:26:00.000-05:00

We've Moved!! Check out the all new Beauty Brains.

We came across an interesting shampoo rant by UK blogger by Rob Fisher that touches on some of the same themes that we write about here. You can check out the entire article, but here are a few pithy quotes from Rob followed by The Brains comments:

Rob Writes:
“I find shopping for toiletries an overwhelmingly draining experience. I can stare at an entire aisle of shampoo for hours, just looking your basic, ordinary, not-too-cheap, not-too-expensive, not-containing-any-wierd-ingredients shampoo. It’s nearly impossible. There’s too much choice!”

The Brains Comment:
What do you people in the real world think? Are there too many choices out there for shampoo and other personal care products?

Rob Writes:
“Yet could it be that all this choice is a good thing? After all, whether you have blonde, coloured, curly, damaged, dry, fine, frizzy, greasy, lifeless, oily, permed, thin, tired, treated, unmanageable or wavy hair, you need to make sure you have the right shampoo for you. And you will be provided for, even if you have greasy roots but dry tips. Pity the poor soul who has “normal” hair, but even amongst this vast array of hair categories there is room for normal hair shampoo. (It seems to me that the marketeers have admitted defeat with normal shampoo.)”

The Brains Comment:
He’s got an interesting point here, modern shampoos stay away from the term “normal” hair and instead chose names that communicate benefits, ala “Sleek and Smooth.”

Rob Writes:
“You can get shampoo that clarifies, energises, fortifies, hydrates, nourishes (from root to tip), nurtures, protects, refreshes, repairs, revitalises, strengthens, tames and volumises your hair.

You can choose from shampoo that boosts vitality; builds inner strength; dramatically increases body and fullness; enhances softness; enriches the vital substance; frees the scalp and hair of impurities in a wave of freshness; frees your mind and spirit (proving that there’s more to shampoo than just hair); improves manageability (by up to 87% - although how it is possible to measure something like “manageability” so accurately is beyond me); increases moisture retention (by up to 49%); infuses moisture; locks in colour and shine; neutralises dulling minerals in water; promotes healthy hair and scalp, a radiant shine, or silkiness and lustre; protects hair from drying out; reduces breakage from brushing; reduces frizz or dandruff; removes itchiness and irritation; restores the scalp’s natural balance smooths all the way to the tip; tames annoying flyaways; targets areas of weakness; wakes you up; or works inside of the hair fibre. Few would argue that these options aren’t vital for the functioning of society.”

The Brains Comment:
Wow, is this guy cynical or what? But, we do agree with some of his points. Consumers have no way of evaluating many of the benefits that shampoo marketers present to you. How would you know what an emollient is doing to your hair, or how can you tell when your hair is 5x stronger? The truth is, you can’t!

Now, that doesn’t mean the beauty companies are deliberately misleading you. It doesn’t mean they’re selling crappy products. It just means that’s the way this marketplace works: to stay in business, companies have to constantly reinvent their products and claims. The reputable companies can prove everything they say about their products, but that proof may be based on esoteric scientific tests that don’t directly relate to anything you could perceive when you use the product.

Is that bad? Not necessarily. If their advertising says something that gets you to buy the product and you like it, then both you and the company win. If on the other hand, you try the product and you don’t like it, if you feel they “tricked” you into buying something that doesn’t work, well then, you won’t buy the product again and the company loses.

So, as long as the beauty industry keeps selling quality products and as long as they promote those products with claims based on scientific testing, there’s nothing wrong with them trying to catch your attention with creative language.

Finally, Rob Writes:
“Then there are plenty of magazines that will happily inform stupid, gullible people, through a series of annual awards, what the best shampoos are and why they need their hair protected from the dulling minerals in water, and these are in no way in collusion with the overpaid arts graduates who lied their way into marketing jobs at shampoo companies. So don’t whine over your dry, damaged hair; adopt the Aussie philosophy: “There’s more to life than hair, but it’s a good place to start.”

The Brains Comment:
Ouch. We don’t like the beauty product consuming public being described as “stupid” and gullible. But, having worked in the industry for many years, there’s something about the line “overpaid arts graduates who lied their way into marketing jobs at shampoo companies” that just makes us smile.

But seriously, buying beauty products is really no different than shopping for a car or making any other complicated purchase: you should begin to educate yourself before you start buying. And that’s why The Beauty Brains are here - to, as Aussie says, give you a “good place to start.”

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2006-04-29T09:17:00.000-05:00

Beauty Q & A - Skin Toners and Astringents

2006-04-29T08:48:00.000-05:00

We've Moved!!! Check out our new site at The Beauty Brains.

A Question from the Glamorous Glitterati Goes Like This:

My facialist told me that toners are important because they re-balance the pH of the skin after cleansing. I could see that cleansers might be slightly basic, but will the toner really re-balance that?

I like toners anyway for the astringent properties you mention, so I'd continue using them regardless of the pH factor. Oh, and the facialist used a toner from Dermalogica. Would there be a "pH difference" between the pricey stuff and the drugstore brands?

The Right Brain Rapidly Responds:

You have a facialist? I’m lucky if I can get someone to cut my hair! But that’s enough commentary on our personal grooming practices; let’s get right to your questions…

Will a toner really rebalance your skin pH? Well, a skin toner is kind of like your appendix – you have one but your body doesn’t really need to use it. Your skin pH is a result of the skin’s acid mantle, a mixture of sebum (skin oils) and sweat that form on the surface of your skin. This acid mantle keeps the pH of your skin at about 4 to 4.5 (Remember, low pH like 1 to 5 is acidic, high pH 8 or above is basic, and the middle, around 7, is neutral. Anyway, this slightly acidic pH is a good thing on your skin because it helps ward off harmful bacteria.

When you wash your skin, you strip away this acid mantle. That’s because the detergents in cleansers are very good at dissolving oils. But don’t worry, because over the next few hours, your skin will regenerate the mantle by itself.

So what about the toner? What does it do? Not much apparently.

Check out what Smartskincare.com has to say on the subject:

"Toning is often touted as an essential step in a skin care routine. It is not. At least not always. The only exception is very oily skin. If you have oily skin and after cleansing it remains sticky or oily, you might benefit from applying toner after cleansing. Otherwise toning may do more harm than good.

Most toners contain alcohol and/or witch hazel. Both are drying and irritating, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin. If you still feel you need a toner, use a soothing toner free of alcohol or witch hazel, such as alcohol-free toner with chamomile.

You do not want to strip every last molecule of oil from your skin. Only grime, makeup and excess oil on the surface needs to be removed. The underlying thin coat of fresh sebum is best left undisturbed. Toners, especially alcohol-based ones, tend to strip everything off, leaving the skin dry and/or irritated.

Some experts argue that toners help close pores and tighten cell gaps after cleansing, thus reducing the penetration of impurities and environmental contaminants into the skin. Whether this is true is debatable. Even assuming it is, most people finish their skin care routine by applying skin care products with active ingredients, in which case you actually want as much penetration as possible. Preceding an active treatment with a toner that closes pores and tightens cell gaps may be counterproductive. After the active product has absorbed into your skin, you can close pores simply by cooling your face. The cold constricts blood vessels and closes pores, producing a toning effect. You can simply step outside if it is a cold time of the year or gently pat your skin with a cold pack (refrigerated but not frozen) for a few seconds. If you are not using any active products, you can tone after cleansing by wiping your face with a chip of frozen green tea. The cold from the ice helps close your pores; the caffeine and tannins in the tea help tighten skin and reduce puffiness; and green tea polyphenols may provide antioxidant benefits. But don't overuse the cold - frequent excessive cooling may increase the risk of developing rosacea (stubborn skin redness)."

Interesting, huh?

You also asked about a pH difference between pricey brands and drugstore brands. Here’s the scoop on that: First of all, the price of the product has no bearing on how the “quality” of the pH. There are pH balanced products at all price points. But secondly, and most importantly, pH of the product doesn’t matter all that much. Since your skin regenerates its natural acid mantle after you cleanse, the pH of the product you apply has very little effect. But don’t take our word for it. Check out what Argonne National Laboratory’s “Ask A Scientist” program had to say when asked about the effect of putting different pH solutions on skin:

Question:
What effect, if any, would my residential well water that has a ph of 5.5 have on my skin?

Answer:
It would have no more effect than tomato juice (fairly acidic at about pH
4) or black coffee ( about pH 5) or urine (about pH 5 to 7). Unpolluted rain has pH of about 6.2.

(If the folks over at Neutrogena are reading this, feel free to use this idea for a new line of skin toners: “Now with Tomato Juice, Urine, and Coffee! Coming soon to a drug store near you!”)

The Brain’s Bottom Line: unless you have very oily skin that needs to be degreased, don’t worry too much about using a pH balanced toner.

This Post has moved. Check out this post on the new site.

How Do You Like Our New Logo?

2006-04-28T10:42:00.000-05:00

Beauty Bits – Stem cells better than silicone?

2006-04-28T07:31:00.000-05:00

We've Moved!!! Click here to find the all-new Beauty Brains

You’ve probably heard about the problems with saline or silicone implants (rupturing, leaking, interfering with mammograms). And then there is the issue of them not looking natural. Well, researchers at the University of Illinois at Chicago have been investigating the problem and have reportedly come up with a solution. Dr. Jeremy Mao and his team of researchers have discovered that they can create superior implants by using cells from a patient’s own body.

The way it works is they remove a few bone marrow stem cells from your body. Then they grow these cells in a bio-scaffolding (which is just a fancy Petri dish). The scaffolding can be molded to any size or shape and over time the cells multiply and grow to that shape. When the implant is ready (after a few weeks) it is put in the body and will work just like natural breast tissue.

Of course the research is in its early stages and more long term studies will have to be completed. But the researchers are close. Someday, really natural new breasts made from your own cells will be a reality.

Beauty in a Bottle: How Do Shampoos Work? Part 2: Mixing

2006-04-28T06:13:00.000-05:00

In "How Do Shampoos Work? " Part 1, we talked about the ingredients used in shampoos and their functions. Here in Part 2, we'll deal with the question - how are those ingredients mixed together to create a shampoo?

The process actually begins in the laboratory where cosmetic formulators blend small amounts of chemicals to understand how they behave when they're mixed together. Once the chemists have a formula and they're satisfied with their ability to make a few pounds of shampoo in the lab, they then translate these mixing instructions into a version suitable for making several thousand pounds in the manufacturing plant. This process of is "scaling up."

In the manufacturing plant, shampoo is typically made in big stainless steel tanks, as large as 3000 gallons. (That's over 20,000 bottles of shampoo!). These tanks have an outer shell that can be filled with either hot or cold water - that's how the batch is heated or cooled. The tanks also have mixing blades that turn the tank into kind of a giant blender.

Ok, now we've got a formula, instructions on how to manufacture it, and a giant blender. Let's make some shampoo!

The first step is to fill the tank with some portion of the water, which is the solvent for the system - it dilutes the the rest of the ingredients to the proper concentration. A special type of water , known as deionized water , is used to ensure the product is as pure as possible. Depending on what else is in the formula, the water may be heated to make the other ingredients dissolve faster.

After the water , the other ingredients are added in a specific order. The surfactants are usually added early in the process. These ingredients range in consistency from being water thin to very jelly like. These may be dumped into the tank from drums or pumped in from other chemical storage tanks. Care must be taken when adding surfactants because they may cause excessive foam. (Remember these ingredients are detergents.) The surfactants may require heating and mixing to fully dissolve.

As the batch reachs its peak temperature, any solid ingredients that require melting may be added. These include opacifiers (ingredients that give the shampoo a pearly appearance ) and certain conditioning agents. Once all these ingredients are thoroughly mixed together, the batch is cooled by pumping cold water through the tank's outer shell. As the batch continues to mix the cold water cools the shampoo and the product begins to thicken.

Once the batch is sufficiently cooled the rest of the ingredients are added. Some ingredients, like fragrance, botanical extracts, and preservatives must be added at the end of the batch because they are heat sensitive. Adding these ingredients in the wrong order can result in a product that either doesn't smell right or one that will grow too much bacteria .

After the bench is finished, adjustments may be made using the control agents . To make sure that every batch of product is the same (or at least ALMOST the same) every product has a set of predetermined specifications. These specifications ensure the product has the right odor , appearance , viscosity, etc. If the product is "out of spec," control agents maybe added to adjust it. For example , if the shampoo is too thin more salt maybe added to the batch to thicken it.

Upon final approval the batch is then pumped through a series of pipes to the filling equipment which puts the product in the bottles. Most modern manufacturers have a fully automated process in which the bottles travel down a conveyor line, pass under a filling head that squirts product into the bottle. Then they move down the assembly line to a capping machine that applies the closure. Finally, the bottles are boxed and placed on a pallet for shipping to stores. From there, next stop: your bathroom!

So there you have it - shampoo mixing made simple. In Part Three we'll deal with how the shampoo actually works on your hair . Look for part three of " How Do Shampoos Work? " in an upcoming post .

Beauty Q&A: Lotions, Astringents, and More

2006-04-27T20:26:00.000-05:00

We've Moved!!! Click here to find the all-new Beauty Brains

Michelle at Vidafruga l emailed this three part question:

1. Lotions: if I already wash my face, why do I need lotion?

2. Astringent: they smell like alcohol, could I just rub alcohol on my face to remove impurities?

3. Why are men's deodorants less expensive than women's? It makes no sense to me!

The Right Beauty Brain Responds: Michelle - You ask several good questions. Let's get right to them!

1) Why should you need a lotion if you're already washing your face?

Because while washing removes oil, dirt, and makeup residue it can also dry out your skin. That's because the surfactants, or cleansing agents, in most standard facial washes do strip some of the natural moisturizing oils from your skin. (We'll have to do a future post to fully explain the difference between good and bad facial washes.) Lotions, on the other hand are designed to put oil and other materials back on your skin to moisturize it. So you may need to use a cleaner AND a lotion, depending on how dry your skin is.

2.) Can you just used alcohol instead of an astringent?

The simple answer is yes you can, but you probably shouldn't.

Historically, astringents are composed of alcohol solutions of witch hazel, a natural extract that can make your skin feel tight and firm.

For example, look at Olay Refreshing Toner. It consists primarily of water, alcohol and witch hazel distillate. But modern astringents have moved away from this approach due to the drying effects of the alcohol.

Take a look at NIVEAs Visage Moisturizing Toner - it's an alochol free toner that uses glycerine, a castor oil derivative, and a polymer to do give your skin the same kind of refreshed feeling. We're not saying that one kind of formula is better than the other, we're just trying to inform you about your choices. You'll have to expermient to find out which kind of formuation works for you, but hopefully we've helped you understand how astringents are different from just using plain alcohol.

In response to your third and final question: there is no technical reason that mens' and women's antiperspirants should be priced differntly. Let's chalk that up to the vaguries of marketing!

We hope this helps. Does anyone else have any questions?
Thebeautybrains

(By the way, check out Michelle's blog at Vidafruga for a latina point of view on beauty care.)

Beauty Q & A - The Truth About Rebuilding Hair

2006-04-26T16:41:00.000-05:00

We've moved!! Check out this post on the new Beauty Brains website.

The Glitterati asks...
What is the deal with "restructuring" treatments for hair? I mean, I get that the vague concept is to "restore proteins" to your hair or some gobbledy-gook, but isn't hair essentially dead? Can a restructuring treatment really force-feed amino acids or whatever into our manes?

And The Left Brain responds...
By the tone of your question, a certain level of skepticism on your part is evident. And it’s a good thing because the idea of being able to slather on a hair restructuring treatment to actually re-form hair is ridiculous. True, hair is made of amino acids and putting them on hair may provide some minor benefit. But it won’t restructure, restore or rebuild the hair.

This would be a bit like trying to repair a weather-worn Kate Spade bag by pouring a basket of thread and fabric on it. Sure, the stylish sack is made of thread and fabric but you can’t just randomly put them on and expect to get a new purse.

It’s the same way with hair and amino acids. To really restructure the hair, the amino acids would have to be chemically arranged in a specific way. This arrangement can only be done in the hair follicle when the hair is growing. After that, nothing can be done except coat the hair with a good conditioner that mitigates some of the signs of damage.

So, what are these restructuring treatments? In essence, they are just glorified rinse-out conditioners. Just take a look at the ingredients.

Here is Tricomin Restructuring Conditioner

Purified Water, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Stearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Triamino Copper Nutritional Complex (see product information for ingredients), Hydroxyethylcellulose, Panthenol, Aloe Vera Gel, Soydimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Citric Acid, Methylparaben, Fragrance, Disodium EDTA, Propylparaben, Peppermint Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholecalciferol, Retinyl Palmitate, Vegetable Oil, FD&C Blue 1, D&C Red 33

The rules of cosmetic labeling require that ingredients are listed in order of concentration above 1%. In general, the more of an ingredient in the formula, the more impact it has on the product. The ingredients near the end of the list are just put in there to make a nice marketing story or are color, fragrance or preservatives. In the Tricomin formula, some of the main “working” ingredients are Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Dimethicone.

But then take a look at a “regular” rinse-out conditioner. Say Pantene Pro-V Conditioner, Smooth and Sleek

Water, Stearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glutamic Acid, Dimethicone, Benzyl Alcohol, Fragrance, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, EDTA, Panthenol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone

Notice any similarities?? The main working ingredients here are Stearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, and Dimethicone.

Both of these are good conditioners. But the Restructuring Conditioner will not rebuild your hair any better than a standard rinse-out formula. And it certainly won't rebuild your hair better than thread and fabric would rebuild a worn out Kate Spade.

Beauty in a Bottle: How do anti-perspirants and deodorants work?

2006-04-26T07:13:00.000-05:00

We've moved. Check out the new Beauty Brains website.

Sarah V posts this perspiration puzzle :

Dear Brains: What's the difference between an antiperspirant and a deodorant? What gives?

The Brains respond:

Sara, thanks for probing this pithy perspiration poser! Here’s the real deal - antiperspirants, as the name implies, stop you from perspiring, or sweating. Deodorants simply get rid of odor. Ultimately, both products are trying to do the same thing: stop you from being stinky. But the way they do their deodorizing duty differs.

Before we explain how these products work, let’s talk a little bit about perspiration. It works like this: you sweat and bacteria grow in the moist, warm areas where the sweat collects. When the bacteria grow they “eat” some of the stuff in your sweat (primarily fatty acids) and they “poop” out stuff that smells bad. End result? B.O. (That’s the quick explanation if anyone’s interested in the long version, just let us know and we can dedicate a future post to a more detailed discussion on sweat. Or you can read all about it here. And if you're really interested, read this article about how women crave the smell of men's sweat!)

So, antiperspirants and deodorants offer you two different approaches to fighting smelly bacterial poop. Deodorants contain an active ingredient (Triclosan is most commony used) that prevents the bacteria from growing and devouring your sweat. No bacteria = no body odor. However, you still get Wet Pits (isn’t that Brad Pitt’s brother?)

Antiperspirants, on the other hand, fight the odor problem in a different way. The active ingredients in antiperspirants, typically zinc salts, interact with your sweat glands to stop perspiration. No perspiration = no food for bacteria = no body odor.

Okay, we know what you're thinking, “Isn't it bad for you to plug up your sweat glands like that?” Don’t sweat it. (Ha, that’s a pun – get it?) But seriously, it’s not something you need to worry about. You’re only affecting a small portion of your body’s sweat glands so you’re not interfering with your body’s natural cooling mechanism. But let's save that discussion for another post.

We should also note that antiperspirants do also have some mild anti-bacterial properties, so if you do still sweat little bit not much bacteria will grow.

Oh, and by the way, both antiperspirants and deodorants also contain fragrance to cover up any odor that does sneak through.

So there you have it two different approaches to solving the same problem. Which one should you use? That's really up to you. Are your arm pits sensitive from shaving? You might want to use a deodorant because some antiperspirants can irritate freshly shaven skin. Do you really, really, really swat a lot? Then you might need an antiperspirant to avoid dripping. Do you wear black dresses that get white stains from antiperspirants? A clear deodorant might be the way to go. (There are clear antiperspirants on the market now, let us know if you want to know more about those formulations.

That’s it for this post. Thanks to Sarah for her question. Stay dry out there!

Beauty Buzz: Hair Growth Laser Comb?

2006-04-25T08:00:00.000-05:00

We've moved!! Check out the all new Beauty Brains website.

Wow, check out this cool Laser Comb that makes your hair healthier!

At least that's what the good people over at HairMax are saying.

According to their website, the HairMax LaserComb harness the power of "Photo-Biostimulation" aka Low Light Laser Therapy, aka LLLT, to improve the appearance of your hair over time. (And it's a STEAL at only $545 over at Drugstore.com!)

"Wow," you're thinking.

"Sounds too good to be true," you say softly to yourself.

You're probably right.

The Brains got suspicious when they read that the Lasercomb works because "Light is energy. Living cells thrive in light and your hair is no different. "

Umm, actually hair IS different. It's dead! That part about hair cells thriving in light? That's crap. If anything, certain frequencies of light are damaging to hair!

So right off the bat, the Hair Max staff have lost some credibility for not understanding basic hair biology. We don't know of any scientific mechanism that would explain how the application of light could improve the condition of hair.

But wait, it gets better... If you read the website carefully you won't see any direct claims about promoting hair growth or preventing hair loss. BUT - if you browse around, you WILL see 16 pictures that show much hair growth their customers had "before and after" using the LaserComb. So they're certainly IMPLYING hair growth claims!

Now, as I'm sure you're wondering: "Doesn't the FDA monitor hair growth claims? What do they have to say about this?"

Good question! Here's a quote from the FDA's website:

"Biostimulation lasers, also called low level laser therapy (LLLT), cold
lasers, soft lasers, or laser acupuncture devices, were cleared for
marketing by FDA through the Premarket Notification/510(k) process as
adjunctive devices for the temporary relief of pain."

So what does the FDA say about the use of LLLT for hair treatment or growth? Nada. Zip. Zero. Zilch.

Sooo, we dont' know about you, but we'd certainly want some kind of evidence this thing works before shelling out 500 bucks! The Brains say: Let the buyer beware!

If anyone has tried this thing, let us know!

Actual Ads: More Animal Protein!

2006-04-23T10:27:00.000-05:00

This blog has moved!!! Check out the all new Beauty Brains.

Ahh, how times change.

Today, amid fears of Mad Cow Disease and Bird Flu, the mere HINT that a product contains any animal by products is even to send even the zealous fan of cosmetics shrieking into the night. But not so back in the 1970s, no sir! Back then we embraced our animal by products. Case in point, this Clairol Condition ad from 1974. Read the fine print carefully - "It contains more animal protein than any leading conditioner." Now there's a claim you don't see anymore!

copyright 1974, Clairol Inc.

Beauty Q & A: What about Natural Cleansers?

2006-04-23T09:15:00.000-05:00

Starrynight wants to know:

Marie Clair's website has an article about natural cleansers.
The article says that shampoos formulated with natural cleansers like Aveda, Phyto and Ojon are better for your hair than other brands. What do you say about that?

The Brains Respond:
Here's a quote from the article Starry mentions...

"All shampoos contain cleansers," explains Christyn Nawrot, a regional educator for Phyto. But those with naturally derived cleansers are less apt to rob your hair of vital oils. (Phyto, Lavett & Chin, Ojon and Aveda use natural cleansers in all of their shampoos.)"

Hoo boy! This is the kind of question the Brains just love! Natural is one of the buzz words in this industry that doesn't mean very much. Let's take a look at the "natural" cleansers in the products mentioned in the Marie Claire article. (To make it easy, we're just listing the cleansers, but you can look at the entire ingredient list at drugstore.com):

Aveda (Rosemary Mint shampoo)
Sodium Coco-Sulfate (as known as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Laureth Sulfate) Lauramidopropyl Betaine (essentially same as cocamidopropyl betaine)
Cocamidopropylamine Oxide

Phyto (Phytocitrus Shampoo)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Coco Betaine (same as cocamidopropyl betaine)

Ojon Ultra Hydrating Shampoo
Magnesium Laureth Sulfate (same base molecule as Sodium Laureth Sulfate)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Lauryl Glucoside
Glyceryl Oleate

Now let's look at a few products with "non-natural" cleansers:

Pantene (Smooth and Sleek)
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
Cocamide MEA

Tresemme (Vitamin E Moisture Rich)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Yes, there are a lot of chemical names here, but you don't have to be a scientist to recognize that all of these products have either "sulfate" type of cleansers , "betaine" type of cleansers, or some combination. These cleansers can be derived from coconut oil, so in that sense they are "natural" but as you can see, the very expensive "natural" products and the less expensive "regular" products basically use the same types of cleansers!

Now, that's not to say that there is NO difference between shampoo formulas. The amount of cleansers in the formula and the conditioning ingredients they are blended with can make a tremendous difference. So, we're not saying any of these products are better or worse than any of the others. (Try them for yourself to find out!) But what we are saying is (and here's the important part:) None of these products are more NATURAL than the others. That's the true science! Buy what ever brand you like, but if you're buying these brands because the company tells you that they are more natural, then you're being mislead. We hope this helps!

Anybody else got a question?

Leave a post or email us at Thebeautybrains@gmail.com.

Skin Lotion Posts

2006-04-22T14:20:00.000-05:00

1) Are La Mer and Kerastase Worth It?

2) Why Do I Need To Use Facial Lotion?

3) Facial Creams and Moisturizers

4) How Skin Lotions Work: Part 1

5) Advances for Making Anti-Aging Lotions

6) What's Making Your Skin Red?

7) Do Shave Minimizing Lotions Work?

8) Does mineral oil cause zits?

10) What's a Good Facial Sunscreen?

11) What To Do For Dry Skin and Breakouts?

12) Do Tattoo Fade Creams Work?

13) Do Dry Skin Products Make Skin Oily?

14) Does Over-Moisturizing Dry Out Your Skin?